We’d driven from Mumbai to Ahmedabad, part of it on the super modern Mahatma Gandhi Expressway which is without doubt one of India’s finest roads. We’d then gone bavk a couple of decades when we arrived in Dasada, a rustic little village at the edge of the little Rann of Kutch. The roads were more suited to bullock-carts, and women in colourful attire drew water from deep of wells as the womenfolk of the village had done for centuries before.
Next morning, with the resident guide Junaid strapped in to the rear seat, we set off to explore the Rann and photograph some wild asses. We crossed the railway line at an unmanned level crossing, only after I first put my ear to the track to be absolutely sure there was no train coming, since the crossing was just after a wide sweeping curve.
Having a guide is essential because parts of the Rann are bogs which are very dangerous to drive a car into. Juniad was with us for this very reason – to steer us clear of these quicksand areas.
From my vantage point on the window, I saw the herd bifurcate as if to avoid an obstacle in their centre. The very same instant Juniad yelled a sharp warning, but my friend at the wheel was hot on the chase and it was a long second before he hit the brakes, but it was too late. The wild asses had led us into a deadly bog.
Junaid whipped out his phone and called his pals Sailesh and Kamlesh and nilesh. Now, calling them and having them arrive were two different things, not because the trio lacked enthusiasm but because the mad chase had left us bereft of any sense of direction. I had to climb on the car and pan the horizon for the railway line that was our only landmark. Half as hour after our location was communicated. Junaid’s pals arrived on old Rajdoot motorcycle and with a lot of pushing, swearing and sweating we managed to get the car unstuck.
The Rann may look flat and arid but life goes on here too. On our way back we crossed groups of namds with their livestock. One group even invited us to share a breakfast of the thick bajra rotis (flat bread made of milet) and sweet camel milk in earthen cups. They were also preparing their evening meal using the ‘Khaad’ method of cooking wherein the food is cooked by the heat of the sand in a pit called a khaad.
I was quite glad to be back on firm tar once we exited the Rann, because this constant shift in direction to avoid mud bogs and mirages that kept dancing temptingly close to the horizon was very disorienting. It felt reassuring to drive once more with real scenery, sighboards and other traffic which mainly consisted of regal camel herds.
Royal Legacy: Through the word of my guide Junaid
Modhera is 50km from Dasada and here lies one of Western India’s finest temples – the temples of the Sun built by King Bhimdev I in 1027. It predates the Sun temples at Konark, Orissa by 200 years and yet the two bear some resemblance. Here too the temple is so designed that the dawn sun shone on the image of Surya at the time of the equinoxes. The designs and carvings of the temple and the adjoining stepwell, the Surya Kund is a legacy of the Silavat stonemansons. They considered the perfect woman to be voluptuous and curvaceous and their mallets and chisels have given form to this idea in beautiful apsaras all over the temple. Of course, when the most unpopular tourist of the time, Mahmud of Ghazni came visiting, he showed his appreciation by letting loose a legion of sledgehammer-wielding demolishers on the temple But it is a tribute to the stonemasons who were renowned for the skill in turning even the hardest stone into delicate carvings that so many carvings remain intact even after centuries of raids led by barbarians intent on destruction.
Another fine example of 11th century architects is at Patan and is called Rani Ki Vav, meaning the queen’s step well. But on the way we stopped at one of the fast disappearing Patola weaver’s place. These skilled artisans still produce beautifully designed silk saris and other garments as they have for years.
At the Rani Ki Vav you would do well to hire a guide like we did. The step-well had fully silted up and this was probably a blessing in disguise. When it was unearthed and restored it shocked the world to see how well preserved it was considering it is 1000 years old. There are scenes intricately carved on the walls, and behind each one there is a story. The step-well was built in 1050 by Rani Udayamati in memory of her husband Bhimdev I who built the Sun Temple at Modhera.
The well was engineered to be used as an old-world air-conditioning system. Our guide also told us that there is a legend about a 30 km tunnel that runs from the last step of the well to the town of Sidhpur and this was designed to be used as an escape route for the King in case of an emergency.
These three places can also be seen in a long day trip from Ahmedabad, but staying at Dasada enabled us to be at the Rann for Sunrise. It gave us long hours at the Sun temple and a relaxed stroll around the Rani Ki Vav. These are places that are a rich legacy of ancient Gujarat. Their fame was so widespread that old Mahmud of Gazni rode down to visit all the way from Afghanistan. Today, they are partially ruined and not at their prime but they still definitely do warrant a visit.
Quick Facts:
Getting there:
By Air: The closet airport is Ahmedabad, from where Dasada is 101 km or a two-hour drive.
By Rail: Ahmedabad is well connected by rail.
By Road: Dasada is connected via road to the rest of the state. Driving around the Rann is the best way to explore the arid yet exotic landscape.
Accomodation:
Rann Riders is good place to stay. There are also other accommodations easily available.
Travel Tips:
Remember this being my native the Rann is a treacherous place if not respected. Its always to have a knowledgeable local guide alongwith you.
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